I’ve heard for years from our very close friends, Johnny and Annie, about the allure of Capri … but my limited imagination could never have prepared us for the week we spent on this beautiful, tiny island.
To summarize: Capri is pure magic (think…Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone level of magicalness).
We were invited to Capri by Annie because she is an amazing wedding and lifestyle photographer, and for the past 8(ish) years I’ve assisted her from time-to-time with photographing some of her weddings. Originally we were only going to stay Thursday through Saturday to help her with 2 weddings, but she (very easily) convinced us to stay for the week.
The trek to get to Capri took us about 11 hours. Our travel route went like this: walk to the train station in Genoa at 6:30 AM, a 5-hour train to Rome, followed by another 2.5 hour train to Naples, then we got in the most expensive cab ride of our lives (1 mile for 23 Euro) and arrived at the Naples ferry port, where we waited another 30 minutes until our hydro-foil ferry arrived. Once on the ferry, it took us 45 minutes to get to the island, and then (yup, we aren’t done) we took the funicular up to the top of Capri and trekked half a mile to our first hotel of the trip (where they were slightly horrified by our disheveled, backpacker-y appearance and we’re pretty sure upon seeing us they switched our room to the furthest corner away from the rest of the guests 😂).
To say it was worth it is an understatement. Capri is magical at all times of the day, but we arrived right as the sun was going down (aka “magic hour), and the smell of freshly made gelato, waffle cones and pizza surrounded us as we wandered through the Piazzetta, which was filled with the most well-groomed people we’ve ever seen … in short, it was love at first sight.
Topping off our initial impression of the island, we spent our first night there being reunited with Annie (someone we very much love and the first person we’ve seen IRL from home), and having the BEST pizza of our lives. The. Best. Pizza. Of. Our. Lives. (See our Weekly Crust review from this week to get more details and pictures of this momentous event.)
Our first full 2 days in Capri were completely dedicated to helping Anne with the weddings; the days passed by in a photo-filled blur (wedding 1 was 11+ hours and didn’t end until 2 AM), but we were grateful to be there – these weddings were an opportunity of a lifetime for me, and I’m so excited to add them to my portfolio :).
By the end of wedding 2 we needed lots of food and wine – we met up with Johnny (aka – the ultimate prankster … watch out for him 🙃) and went to Villa Margherita for a seriously amazing dinner – if you stop in Capri, eat here ASAP!
Day 3 in Capri started out pretty pathetic for us – we were so tired from the weddings and late nights that we slept in and then lazed by the pool till 5 PM. We probably could’ve gone back to bed, but luckily Johnny and Annie are way cooler than us and planned to take us to a bar called Maliblu where people gather to dance and watch the sunset over the ocean. The DJ, Fabio, was also the DJ from the weddings we shot and he is incredible. We drank Rose and danced and danced until the sun went down – in short we had the best time. Definitely one of the best moments of The World Trip.
Post Maliblu, we took a cab through the winding roads / cliffs of Ana Capri back to Capri, and promptly went back to have another round of the world’s best pizza. And wine. So much wine.
Ugh, I miss it so much.
Day 4 was beach day! Johnny thought the best way to get to his favorite beach, Marina Piccola, would be to hike down a closed path (it’s closed because sometimes rocks tend to break off the side of the island and fall onto the path / humans), and then jump over two locked 8 ft. tall gates. I told you, you have to watch out for him and his many antics…but I have to say it was a spectacular hike down and we secretly appreciated the adventure.
We eventually made it unscathed to the beach where we immediately dove into the clearest Mediterranean water we’ve ever seen. Steve also promptly found some rocks to jump off, because if there is a rock in the middle of the ocean Steve will immediately find, climb and leap off of it.
That night we walked up 1,000,000 stairs to Villa Lysis, an incredible villa that overlooks the entire island (it was originally owned by an eccentric millionaire who married a teenager – true story), and took pictures as the sun set. Post villa we went to Panorama for more delicious pizza and pasta…Capri: good for the soul, bad for the waistline.
Day 5 was Day-Trip-to-Ravello-Day! We took a ferry over in the morning and then rode a jam-packed, cliff-hugging bus to the top of town; we spent a few hours at Villa Rufolo wandering through its perfect Eden-like gardens and overlooking the Amalfi Coast – the entire Villa feels like a fairy tale. Post-villa and amazing lunch at Palazzo Avino we had planned to stop at Positano, but the traffic was so bad that no taxis or buses could make it to the top of Ravello and instead of waiting, Annie found a (very steep) path straight down the mountain back to the ferry port. That night we were all exhausted and ordered in some pizza-pies from Buca di Bacco and went to sleep early.
Day 6 = our final day on Capri (che tristezza). We woke up kind of early and met J&A to take the Monte Salerno Chairlift to the top of Capri – once you reach the top you’re able to see around the entire island. We then, again, decided to walk down (definitely got our steps in on Capri!) and the walk ended up being quite scenic; we even spotted some mountain goats (or maybe they were regular goats just hanging out on the side of the mountain?) before making it to the bottom. To cool off we planned to take a taxi to the beach Bagni Tiberio, but Steve being Steve decided he wanted to see how fast he could get down to the beach sans Taxi (I opted for the taxi). Once we met him (he beat us of course because he’s a gazella) we swam and lazed by the ocean until the sun disappeared.
We were so so sad to leave Capri – I honestly thought I might cry that morning as we packed up and boarded the ferry … but my sadness was offset because we were headed to my favorite city in the world, ROMA, and we were meeting Johnny and Anne there for one last night in Italy.
Hilariously, Steve and I hadn’t done laundry in like 3 weeks by this point so although I wanted to spend our only day in Roma visiting the Colosseum and eating gelato, we had to find a laundromat before heading to Asia. The backpacking life has a few cons. We eventually found a tiny laundromat where we spent 2ish hours washing, drying and repacking everything we owned; by the time we were finished it was already 3 PM.
We hurried to shower and change and then met Johnny, Annie and their friend Kris at the Piazza Navona and wandered around the Spanish Steps and the ancient alleys of Roma. That night they took us to their favorite restaurant in the city and post our final-pasta filled evening we had gelato and said tearful goodbyes to our friends.
To summarize, this was one of the best weeks of our trip / probably our lives. We love Capri, we love Ravello / the Amalfi Coast, and we extra love Johnny and Annie.
Next stop…? Vietnam 😉